Passes Maraton - Micha's travel report

Introduction

Peter actually suggests going to the GSsen for a medium-long weekend in the Dolomites at the end of September! For a pass marathon! But despite the uncertainty about the seasonal weather conditions, my promise is quickly given. Not only because of the pleasant passengers already registered, after all, the best weather can also be expected!

In addition, the region is (not only) very diverse, paradisiacal for motorcyclists and is not stingy with narrow, smooth, winding roads and impressive panoramas. The region's touring highlights include the Sella, Drei Zinnen, Rosengarten, Schlern, Odle, Sassolungo and the Marmolada - at around 3.340m, the highest mountain in the area.

In fact, right from the start we were faced with late summer weather conditions with cloudless blue skies every day - so my fears about the weather were unfounded. However, weeks before, when the decision to take part was made, everything had to be taken into account in terms of possible weather.

When it came to changing the tires on my bike at this point, advance planning was required. The robust Conti TKC70, which I was familiar with and which I had already installed several times, was no longer available weeks before the start, so an “alternative just in case” was needed: The K60 Scout (picture), which was installed at short notice, also seemed to be a good choice and has proven itself on the market Tour actually!

The journey

Our tour guide Peter thought a lot about the pass marathon.
NO motorway, that was clear - and also expressways only to “make meters” or where driving on them is inevitable due to a lack of alternatives.
We start on Friday and don't have to struggle with traffic as expected. So we are making good progress, starting with seven GSsen in Irschenberg.

Peter already has a few delicacies ready for us during the journey. On the way to Kufstein, for example, we first drive towards Sudelfeld, but shortly before we turn right in the valley to drive over the Ursprungpass and through the Thiersee valley, known to every biker in a wide area due to its hilly, winding landscape.
We then leave the Wilder Kaiser north and stop shortly afterwards in front of the castle in Münichau (picture). A word here, a look there, the shutter-release button pressed and then continue, we aim at the Pass Thurn in the Kitzbüheler Alpen. And so slowly the hunger is already coming! Justus' tip comes in handy:

He recommends a lunch break in Jochberg at the Alte Wacht inn. There (picture) we sit outside in the sun, have fun and dine well and extensively.

The passage of the subsequent boring Felbertauern tunnel is not so tempting, but afterwards it is again well motivated by the exciting Defereggental.
Up to the Obersee, where Bärbel and Max stop to take a few photos due to the beautiful panorama. The lake and the mountain panorama invite you to a break or a picnic ...
Theo and Max (picture) also enjoy the view while the rest of the journey is over and waiting for us at the nearby highlight of the day: The Passo Stalle (Staller Sattel)!

We use a short waiting time on the western, Austrian part of the saddle due to the prevailing one-way rule for another short photo stop (picture) - and after the traffic light that changes to green, we wind down into the Antholz Valley.

It gets late and later, so pausing is no longer the order of the day. On top of that, Peter has a few passports ready for us:

His further route leads us first over the Furkelpass (Passo Furcia), then to the Würzjoch (Passo delle Erbe) and to the Kofeljoch (Passo di Eorres) as well as over the Panider Sattel (Passo Pinei). The enchanting route is a single, exciting enthusiasm.

In the late evening we arrive hungry in Ortisei, where we look forward to the prepared treats. Domenico's wife Manuela is also waiting for us there. She came by car because the two of them want to spend a few days in Trentino after the tour.

The passes marathon

A bright blue, cloudless sky greets us on Saturday morning, along with an extensive breakfast. Then we start our brummer with a lot of strength, because today we want to tackle Peter's pass marathon. No sooner have we started westwards with our seven petrol horses than the Panider saddle that we conquered yesterday is waiting for us. Then it goes down to almost down to the Eisack and then winds up towards the Niger Pass and the Karer Pass. We pass Lago di Soraga on the way to the rather demanding Passo di Lúsia, before we cross it we split up. As a later meeting point, the next obvious source of coffee is identified in front of the Passo Rolle.
Before that, we want to offer the GSsen and ourselves something more adventurous! After a few hundred meters of asphalt, it is steep uphill, curvy and forested. Standing on the balancing hum, we are walking over hill and dale or better over heavily washed-out channels and numerous coarse transverse grooves as well as a few concrete bends.
The rear of Domenico's "cow" with street tires prances back and forth particularly when climbing. Your rear wheel often throws small stones and creates a pronounced fountain of dust behind you - so keep your distance.
We rarely encounter hikers and if we notice them, we rein the bikes as we pass and greet them warmly.
We stop at the top of the pass because after a fork in the distance we see a no-passing sign.

That is why Domenico asks a farmer, who happens to be passing by, what the future course of the route looks like.
"If you take the right turn in front of the barrier," Demonico translates to us the Italian's answer, "it will be a little coarser at first, but then everything will be OK!". With thanks we wave to the farmer and plunge into pleasure.
Back in the valley and on asphalt, the Lago di Paneveggio greets us shortly afterwards on the right, before we spot a hut with a place to rest on the left on the climb to Passo Rolle. However, since the hut is a restaurant, a simple coffee is unfortunately not available. So we wait at the bikes for the arrival of our fellow travelers who had previously said goodbye and then have our photo taken together with a mountain panorama that is worth seeing.

Shortly afterwards (picture) we screw ourselves over the Passo Rolle to a rest area, where we take the desired coffee break.

It can hardly get any better. But the navigation system warns to continue, because there are still a number of passes around us.
The first GSsen demand fuel on the onward journey, so we refuel in Tonadico at the next opportunity. During this refueling stop, the “adult” adventurers can afford to take a break. The fuel prices in Italy are well above those of the Austrians, which is definitely an argument when it comes to filling the pot-bellied ADV's. And Theo has an additional security: a filled fuel canister on the suitcase of his Adventure is extremely reassuring with regard to the risk of a possible breakdown.
There are no detours, Peter has everything under control on the way to Passo di Cereda. After the Forcella Aurine on the SP347, we again curve up a little more violently. We keep to the north, between the mountain ranges of the Civetta and Moiazza to the Passo Duran, and the curve specter continues afterwards!
Turning north-westerly to Passo Staulanza, we have a coffee stop with espresso, cappuccino or something similar - that is always possible and is good and cheap in Italy. Mounted again, we approach the Passo di Giau in the cornering Eldorado. In terms of driving and landscape, the 55 bends in this region are a real highlight. On the grippy asphalt, we find great pleasure on the considerable inclines and many narrow serpentines. And the landscape of the mountains is changing significantly. The higher we "climb", the more rugged the rock faces, the trees become rarer, the view behind every curve more spectacular.
Autumn also offers its own dramaturgy: the now low sun now illuminates the sides of the mountain ranges, which shine impressively and entice us to stop again for photos.

As we continue into the evening hours, the sun later blinks us driving westward, as it continues to wander along the horizon for a while and shines in our faces.
At the top of the Passo Falzarego, which is also very popular because of its numerous hairpin bends, then down again from the GS. I quickly climbed a nearby staircase and took another photo of the group, with the pass in the background.

The Passo Val-parola, close to the Passo Falzarego, was reached shortly afterwards, passed and prominently photographed with Bärbel and Peter in the foreground.

It's going down. And straight back up into the mountains, up to Passo Gardena. For today it forms the crowning glory of the pass, because the sun has already set even on the western slopes and the temperature has dropped significantly. Fortunately, our accommodation is close! So off to the hotel, where South Tyrolean specialties and another sociable evening await us today.

The return trip

It's already Sunday, day of departure from Ortisei for all of us. Some still took a day off from work for Monday, so plan to go back on another day of the tour.
Beate and Max, for example, want to drive home via the Passo Gardena. Bärbel and Peter are drawn to Austria for another day. Manuela and Domenico go to Trentino.
Justus, Theo and I finally choose the way home. But not directly, because the same applies to us here: the path is the goal!
Leaving Ortisei, we head west towards Brenner. We noticed on the descent that Theos Adventure lacks a bit of oil, so we drive towards Bolzano on the SS12 running parallel to the motorway.
We find plenty of petrol stations on it and thus supplies for Theos Causa - so we thought. But on Sunday self-service is the order of the day in Italy, even larger petrol stations are unoccupied. Our faces are getting longer and longer, Justus comes up with a plan: good acquaintances of his living in nearby Frangart could surely give us a tip.
When we arrive in Frangarto, we order a coffee from a friend of Justus's hotel and Justus describes our problem. The person asked spontaneously helps out with a canister of oil, so once the oil level has been corrected, nothing stands in the way of a worry-free journey.