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Namibia, with 2,5 million inhabitants (Berlin 3,7 million) and an area more than twice the size of Germany, is a pearl in southern Africa. Stunning landscapes, grandiose wildlife and sunsets bathed in purple with a unique starry sky. A true paradise for adventurers, spiced with a touch of German history.
But the very best is the more than 80% share of gravel roads. Without a shadow of a doubt, the Namibian gods must be GS riders...
The "Island-Gang 2022" already had the idea of going to Namibia on the tour of the same name and soon got stuck in the depths of the GS soul. As soon as the tunnels were back on the mainland, the planning started. After the tour is before the tour. At the beginning of every planning is the right travel time. Silvia and Hans quickly agreed that Dany had to pass. The Saarlanders Susanne and Thomas eventually too (pharmacy, pharmacy, ...).
From now on we absorbed everything Namibia was written on, met more and more people who raved about the country and gave us great tips. But no one who has ever been there by bike. So I had to do some research on my own.
The flight was booked around Christmas time and it soon became clear that renting bikes in Namibia is not that easy. We tapped into many channels (Dave Scates, CTMR, BMW Club Namibia, BMW Motorrad Windhoek, local tour operators, ...) but in the end we decided on GS Africa. A bike rental company, which many SA tourers will probably still be familiar with, is located in Cape Town, 1500 km away from Windhoek.
If the bike does not come to the rider, the rider must go to the bike...
So change of plans. Flight to Windhoek. Rent a car. Visit Etosha Park (bikes are not allowed anyway). Back to Windhoek. Fly to Cape Town (meet Ossi, more later). Receive bikes and return overland to Namibia. What happened to us, what we experienced, comes now...
Day 0
Before such a trip starts, everything has to be planned down to the last detail. Of course, there is also a more comfortable way, there are providers who offer guided bike tours including service vehicles and luggage transport, as well as beautiful accommodation. The so-called all-round carefree package.
However, we have opted for unlimited freedom and maximum flexibility and therefore also for camping. But that means tent, sleeping bags, air mattresses, pillows, solar lights, gas cooker, espresso machine - including coffee and coffee creamer etc. fighting for space in the travel bag with compressor, tire repair kit, basic tools, clothes, slippers, shoes and sunscreen SF30.
The newly purchased 85l QBAG bags were weighed umpteen times, unpacked again, things redistributed and sorted out until the packing buckles were satisfied and gave up their rebelliousness. These bags were our companions, strapped to the bike.
In order to save weight and volume, we got into the aircraft wearing boots and motorcycle jackets. It went without any problems and has already caused a stir at airports, astonished faces and one or the other small talk. No, we didn't wear the helmet during the flight. These were allowed to fly in the cabin as hand luggage in helmet bags specially provided for the tour.
If you book Gravel, you also get Gravel. As mercilessly as wanted. Falls and falls are to be taken into account in the terrain. Deposits are required for the machines. We have taken out extra insurance for this in advance, which will step in should the worst come to the worst.
Day 1
Going through it umpteen times in my head, it finally happened on 14.03.23,15/00/40, XNUMX:XNUMX. We took the S-Bahn from Neubiberg in the direction of the airport. At Rosenheimerplatz, however, it was already over. Like in a disaster movie, the scoreboards spouted one failure after the other. Still cool at first, after XNUMX minutes we fled (with bags weighing several tons and the aforementioned helmet packaging) together with a desperate Italian in the wake of the scene by taxi in the direction of the airport. It's starting great...
But «Hakuna Matata», made it in time and «ready for takeoff», it went by air from Munich to Frankfurt and on to Windhoek with the night bomber.
Day 2-5
Arrived at Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek, we took over the rental car without any problems and, after a stopover in downtown, drove to Etosha National Park, which is about 5 hours away. This may - why not - not be visited by motorbike. We had reserved a camp site for three nights at Okaukuejo Camp near Anderson Gate.
The next morning we started with the first reconnaissance trip (everything gravel). We were able to admire and admire zebras, gnus, giraffes, antelopes of all kinds and sizes, ostriches, rhinos and elephants in droves. Everything there, except water buffalo. However, one of the Big 5 does not exist in the Etosha.
We really didn't miss a water hole, lions, leopards and cheetahs were rare, we didn't meet them. Until that night when a lion, obviously roaring angrily, startled the whole camp. The poor soundproofing of a fine tent skin may hide this, but he could have been only a few feet away. It makes your blood run cold and it becomes immediately clear who the boss is in the precinct. Somehow you secretly hope that the fence will hold up after all...
The campsites with lodges are small villages and all have waterholes outside the demarcated area that can be observed from a safe distance (at night with yellow floodlights). It is impressive how apparently with a certain order of priority the animals appear out of nowhere and seek refreshment. Sometimes however also fights between pubescent Rhinos take place. The savannah really comes to life after sunset.
Even the best times come to an end, but we still had a real treat in our quiver on the way back to Windhoek. Namely the visit to the Cheetah Conservation Fund, a sanctuary for cheetahs. These filigree big cats can reach speeds of up to 130 km/h, but to the chagrin of the farmers they also tear livestock. In order to avoid being shot down (permittedly), this facility has set itself the task of training Anatolian Shepherd Dogs, which keep the predators away. But only rich farmers can afford it. Young animals that are shot or left behind are still unavoidable. We were lucky and had just arrived for feeding.
Back in Windhoek we met Harald and Heidrun from the BMW Motorradclub Namibia in the evening. Harald is a co-founder of the club, both grew up in Africa and some of them are already living in Namibia in the 5th generation. In the best German we spent an entertaining evening at Joe's Beerhouse.
Our GS Club was well represented - two wheels connect all over the world.
Day 6
The next day we flew back to the airport, handed in the rental car and flew to Cape Town with Airlink to finally collect our motorcycles. Motorbikes cannot be rented in Namibia itself. Maybe a Royal Enfield, but not a BMW. Our rental company, GS Africa, offered to transport the machines to Windhoek and back again. The fun would have cost an additional €450 per machine and way. That's actually how the idea came about to pick up the bikes in Cape Town ourselves.
Ready and with the ticket in hand it would have been too easy. At Windhoek Airport there was an announcement that sounded something like “Mr. Hans Porger, isaskedfortogoto Gate 3». Strange our gate is 5...?
A security employee welcomed us in a friendly but firm manner and led us across the airfield to the baggage hall. There our two QBAG bags were already neatly separated on the floor. The security officer behind the screen kept babbling about a pump and for a long time we only understood the train station. It wasn't until the contents of the bags were spread out on the floor that we realized he was after the CO2 cartridges (tire patch kit). These flashed blood red when the luggage was scanned on the monitor and acknowledged the find with an alarm.
There was nothing to negotiate, we finally saw that we were rid of the cartridges, the cartridges inevitably changed their owner (and owner) at the same moment. These are not allowed in air traffic because of the risk of explosion. Silvia knows the problem from every sailing holiday, the same fuss always happens because of the cartridges in the fully automatic sea life jackets, or not. Interesting how each airline does this differently. in Munich and Frankfurt it wasn't a problem. Yes, in Windhoek.
Finally arrived in Cape Town and after moving into a hotel not far from the rental company, we met Ossi, Thomas and Ralf for dinner in the steakhouse Nelson's Eye for an unofficial, unscheduled regulars' table. Another very entertaining evening accompanied by fuel talks and sharing of incredible stories. The whole thing is accompanied by juicy steaks, beer and wine. A few whiskeys were probably there too...
Day 7
After breakfast we finally went, more or less around the corner, directly to GS Africa.
We had already sorted out all the paperwork in Germany. It quickly became clear to Silvia that it had to be the 750. Hans found it a bit more difficult and finally dared to experiment with the Baby GS (a wrong decision!).
The handover went smoothly, the owners Candi-Lee and Paul handed over the machines to us extremely conscientiously, including detailed documentation and customs papers. But we still couldn't jet off straight away. The 310 GS had to be upgraded by master screwdriver Hans with the USB charging plug and mobile phone holder he had brought with him, and the 750 GS also needed holders for mobile phones and other rechargeable gadgets.
The fact that a large trade union strike was scheduled for that day in Cape Town, which can quickly escalate into violence and wild riots, also explains the large number of police and military personnel. In the end, however, everything went well and we were able to take the N7 leave town north.
But first the purchase of a gas cartridge for the cooker was announced. Not so easy, as the burner that was flown in needs a pedestal based on European standards. On the second try, we found the right equipment. Now nothing stood in the way of the wonderful transformation of primary energy into conjuring up a morning coffee with plenty of caffeine for the connoisseur. Campers know what we're talking about.
Via Paarl, Ceres, Bella Vista, we went across the Ceder Mountains in the direction of Citrusdal with today's destination Clanwilliam. Our first pass was the Bainskloof and we became more and more familiar with the African road signs "Beware Leopard". Driving on the left worked great and was already becoming second nature to us.
It was surprisingly cold and wet, but we are tried and tested Iceland and not made of cardboard. Shortly after Citrusdal, the first gravel road awaited us and we adjusted the volume of our tires to the conditions that were textbook. Finally, the first rays of sunshine appeared and we enjoyed the warming effect.
Finally arriving in Clanwilliam the navigator took us straight to the local campsite. It's hard to describe, but apart from the poor sanitary facilities and the fact that we were the only ones in a huge campsite, we felt uncomfortable there and went to the only hotel in the small town. We were lucky, we just got hold of the last available room. The atmosphere couldn't have been better. Runs…
Anyone who has not planned their tour down to the last detail, including accommodation, should heed an important rule. Arrive at the campsite in good time and avoid driving after dark. Don't underestimate the time it takes to set up the tent. It's amazing how high the sun is at the moment, but 1 hour later darkness has already swallowed the day.
Now in the African autumn it is pitch black at 19:00.
Day 8
Today there was a lot on the agenda. We went directly to Namibia via Springbok. The temperatures rose constantly and when we reached the national border, it was already really hot like in Africa.
The border crossing there has a system, but is in many different hands. A form here, a stamp there, the road toll here, customs there. After about 1,5 hours in total we had the procedures on the South African and Namibian side behind us. A record, thank God there was little going on.
We quickly refueled, then we really had to hurry to reach our destination for the day, the campsite 20 km from the Fish River Canyon, before nightfall. It was a race against the clock, once again. What a ride, first on tar, the last 80 km on gravel. At around 100km/h side by side towards the evening sun. Who likes to swallow dust that has witnessed our activities for hundreds of meters.
Dead tired but happy, we reached our station and the tent was set up just before nightfall. Showered and groomed in the resident restaurant, we were the only ones.
As in the last few days, the menu included a steak and a wonderful cold beer.
Day 9
The disappointment came the next morning. Everything packed and ready to go, but the little one (310) just didn't want to start anymore. So the African breakdown service had to help out, which was not a problem in the form of a helpful landscaper on the property. Without discussion, he stopped mowing the lawn and jump-started his truck. An improvised tow rope (or was it an anchor chain?), 2nd gear and a prayer helped the 310 back on its feet.
The battery later caused problems again, which was most likely due to the USB plug being connected directly to the battery. Such plugs probably also draw current, although no consumers are connected. Why a GS is delivered without a plug remains a mystery.
Meanwhile, Silvia had to defend our belongings against the greedy baboons. They came in droves in the morning hours and searched the campsite for anything to eat. These beasts are snotty, Silvia's helmet almost fell victim to a theft and could be recaptured at the last moment with a few more scratches.
Now off towards Fish River Canyon. The second largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon in the USA.
Hold on a moment because you are so beautiful...!
A stop at the Gondwana Canyon Roadhouse 30 km north is definitely worth it. The old, discarded cars and mopeds are staged in a cool way and an ice-cold rock shandy – the Namibian national drink – is always good. And anyone who is there and opens the staged Pandora box in the loo should be warned. At that moment, a shrill bell rings and everyone in the room immediately knows what happened...
Today we're smarter and don't plan too much, especially since the weak battery cost us a lot of time again in the morning. Not planned, but then we drove to the heart of the canyon to the Ai Ais Resort and set up camp there (Itchy Boots says hello).
Day 10
After packing up, rested and bursting with energy, we continued south to the Orange River, the natural border to South Africa. Arriving there, a road block briefly irritated. There was an unmistakable barrier in the middle of the street with the words "Road Closed". In principle, it is also not uncommon for the Orange River to burst its banks during extreme rainfall and damage the adjacent gravel road. But it didn't fit into the picture, as we had asked in Ai Ais if the road was passable.
It was clear to Hans that turning back was not an option “they must have forgotten the sign”. As a good Swiss girl, Silvia always follows all the guidelines (well, mostly), and was a little skeptical. With a sinking feeling we ignored the official barrier and then passed it.
This southern passage is one of the highlights of the Namibia tour. A breathtaking scenery. The gravel road that was actually flooded weeks ago has already been prepared by construction workers. Nevertheless, there are partial sandy passages that can only be recognized as such very late. Sand and gravity are two tough opponents for GS riders and so the 750 including rider succumbed to physics...
All around loud monkeys who probably enjoyed the spectacle.
Luckily, a helpful driver (yes, yes another criminal) was there and we could continue. Hans had driven ahead and fought with all his strength in the same battle and didn't notice any of it.
The original stage destination Lüderitz could no longer be reached that day and so we booked ourselves into Klein-Aus-Vista, a fantastically beautifully situated campsite. Before that, we filled up in the little town of Aus and had a princely meal in the Bahnhof Hotel.
We spent a bitterly cold desert night with up to 5 degrees in the morning hours. You shouldn't underestimate it, the climatic differences in Namibia are enormous. It is not uncommon for one to move on a high tableau of around 1500m.
In general, the campsites are all very nicely laid out and spacious. Each pitch often has its own brick roundabout, shady tree, often with its own water and electricity connection. The sanitary facilities were basically simple, functional and well maintained. Sometimes there was also a restaurant or shop so that you could get food or stock up on essentials (especially water).
Day 11
Today Lüderitz was on the agenda. The way there is completely tarred and discredited as the best road in Namibia. Making miles was the order of the day. Observe the well-known wild horses halfway. Today was probably a rest day, we didn't see any.
About 10 km before Lüderitz we turned left towards Kolmannskuppe. A disused diamond mine along with an abandoned German settlement. The now crumbling houses stand unreal in the middle of the dunes, flooded with sand. A guide from Lüderitz, who of course spoke perfect German, told us the entire story of the discoveries of the so-called flushing diamonds. Today's ghost village developed around the mine and it is still written where the teacher, the slaughterhouse and the bowling alley were at home. In fact, in those days, you just had to pick diamonds off the ground. Footage shows people crawling on their stomachs putting the bling in a bag. Kinda crazy.
The visit is entertaining and really worthwhile. A few diamonds were probably overlooked, we still found a few hidden in the sand. Psssst….
But now to Lüderitz. The first small town in Namibia, a relic of German history. Yes, the city has a beautiful little church, and the past can still be read on the house fronts. But somehow we were disappointed by the gem. It lacked the flair, the place didn't capture us, so that we looked for the distance again without dismounting. The good 100 km back past Aus, where we soon turned north towards Helmeringhausen. Helmeringhausen and Solitaire have a secret competition, namely who can serve the best apple pie. It was clear to us that we had to find out for ourselves.
The way there, not the best gravel and anything but easy to ride. After 25km it happened. The drive train of Silvia's horse jumped off the sprocket, bucked and finally threw the rider off at a decent speed.
The chain had become so jammed that it was impossible to repair it without heavy tools. The slow reduction in Silvia's adrenaline also revealed what remained hidden seconds after the fall. There was no thought of going any further. Hans organized help in the form of Steve, owner of the gas station in Aus. Together in the outback, however, the chain could be brought back to its destination. Back in Steve's garage, the limb beast was given the necessary tension again. Why a chain when there is also a cardan?
The sun was already low on the horizon again, so we checked into Klein-Aus-Vista again, this time in one of the houses. Hello again...
At the accommodation, Dr. Rule out a concussion for Hans. Everything else would show up the next day. Good food was the order of the day. Do we deserve it? Haven't had a steak for a long time...
Day 12
New morning, new luck? It got off to a bad start. We left the luggage straps in Steve's car. But he was on his way and didn't come back anytime soon. So there was no thought of continuing. But Steve ordered by phone that the travelers be given 2 new ratchet straps from his shop, mind you, free of charge.
If it hadn't been enough, the little one wouldn't start again. But standing on the mountain and that was enough to put the piston of the single cylinder permanently in the dynamic state with momentum.
Well, Silvia was cautiously optimistic and we tried the apple pie route a second time. But it was no longer possible for Silvia to continue on this bumpy fateful route. Head cinema and a spine that has already been operated on are the wrong companions at this moment. Just wearing the helmet caused pain. Namibia is beautiful, but also mercilessly honest. It should not be forgotten that the local health system can quickly reach its limits in the event of serious and complicated problems.
What to do? The only solution was to leave Silvia's vehicle somewhere and continue the journey with a rental car. Via detours but exclusively on tar, we heated the 650 km towards Windhoek, the sun was already at its zenith. The 310s at full throttle, refuel, drive, refuel, drive...
Hans in front and Silvia behind as if pulled on a string. At 120km/h a dog ran across the street. Everything the 310 knows about decelerating at full speed has been called upon. The fork dipped so deeply that the front fender (which isn't sheet metal, but plastic) hit the crossmember of the crash bar and was caught by the still happily rotating tire and literally shredded by the Karoo 3's stud. Nothing happened, but what if the front tire locked up? Dangerous part...
Another long, unplanned day. To anticipate it. We lost the race with the sun and the cause of daylight. When we reached Windhoek it was already pitch black. On the way we had already organized accommodation through Booking, which made things a little easier. Tired and supplied with leftover chips and red wine, we spent the night.
Day 13
Silvia does not hesitate in such situations. The night before she booked a rental car in Windhoek with Thrifty. She took a taxi to the rental agency first thing in the morning. Another Toyota Urban (no four-wheel drive). A car that served us well at the beginning of the Etosha. Man, these cars really have to endure a lot in Namibia.
Hans left his GS in the hotel (battery disconnected beforehand) and from now on strutted along on Silvia's 750s. After 8 km we continued as planned on gravel, Hans in front on the 750 and Silvia behind in the safety/service/film car. So it was still possible to continue the holiday and as a bonus, the motorcycle was now free of any ballast.
It's hard to believe, the difference to the 310 GS off-road is huge. And that was certainly not due to the Dunlops, the 750 moved off-road as if on rails.
Now the stomachs should get what they had been promised so firmly in their hands days before. A freshly baked, juicy apple pie. Coming from the north over the beautiful Spreetshoogte Pass, we strictly followed the compass in the direction of Solitaire. Not a village, but a place of worship with a gas station, a small workshop with a tire service and 2 eating places is more like what is on offer. After a proper refreshment for man and machine, we went on to the next highlight - Sossusvlei.
Speaking of refueling. You are really well advised to take every gas station with you in Namibia. The distances are not to be underestimated, a gas station is quickly out of order. It's no fun sitting out in the heat for hours because of a defect. After all, we were forced to have this experience already. Trees that provide shade are few and far between. But stopping involuntarily due to lack of fuel should be avoided at all costs.
At the latest at the entrance to the Sossusvlei National Park we were glad to have a car with us. Motorbikes are forbidden for the 60 km route to the actual destination Deadvlei, this time not to protect the driver, but to protect the wildlife (noise).
The Deadvlei is a beige salt-clay pan surrounded by dunes in the Namib, which only has water in very rare good rainy years. The parched white salt ground, the red dunes up to 300 m high (Big Daddy, the highest sand dune in the world), the blue sky and the black, eternally old preserved trees form a picturesque scenario. But they also offer the most beautiful photo motifs.
The campsite not far from the park entrance was generous as usual, the pegs for the tents quickly placed in the sandy ground. Shower and go for a delicious meal. No, not steak again this time. The chef first looked at us in disbelief, but then served us a tasty pea soup and a mixed vegetable. Afterwards there was a nightcap, we decided on a "springbok", a bright green alcoholic delicacy. Yummy!
Day 14
We continued our tour in the direction of Swakopmund, located directly on the Atlantic. The city gained historical importance under the German colonial administration and as the most important port for immigrants from Germany. A pretty town with a lot of charm, which definitely deserves a longer stay. But happy too soon. Still far away from Swakopmund, just about 30 km north of Solitaire, we experienced a deja vu, now with Hans. The chain decided again out of the blue to abruptly leave the intended destination. OK, it was a little deep and the machine bounced uneasily over the bumps. The wavy lines in the sand bear witness to the moment. However, the lady was caught at the last moment and a fall avoided.
Is this how you thank your master? Chains should be banned.
The villain's assessment led to the realization that a chain link had come loose from the rivet. At least now it was clear that the motorcycle tour would end here. Far and wide no one to see. A tow rope was quickly formed over several tension belts. Now the order was reversed, Silvia in front in the clean, air-conditioned and dust-free car, Hans in tow behind (38 degrees and flying blind). The world can be unfair...
After about 10 km we reached a campsite, left the motorcycle and keys there, informed our landlord in Cape Town and then started the relaxation program.
The Roststock-Ritz campsite was worth a visit. The owner (of course German speaking) has created something wonderful there. In addition to luxuriously furnished accommodation, a beautifully situated camping site that we had all to ourselves. Showers and sink with a view over the vastness of Damara Land - fantastic. Supplied with delicacies and wine, we again marveled at the starry sky of the southern hemisphere. «I see the starry sky».. got its very own meaning here.
Day 15
Well, yes. After a photo stop at the Tropic of Capricorn, the two of us drove to Swakopmund, probably the most German city of all cities. She immediately captivated us. Nice street cafes and delightful boutiques that are unparalleled in good old Germany.
Ideal opportunity for Hans to go to the hairdresser. The manager of the shop knew how to tell her life story at great length. So distracted actually a small miracle that this went off without injuries. A quick fish roll (that's what it's called...), and off to our last camp night in the scenic highlight of Spitzkoppe.
The Spitzkoppe is an inselberg with a height of 1728 m that towers 700 meters above its surroundings. Due to its striking shape, it is also known as the "Matterhorn of Namibia". Beautiful rock formations, natural arches and bridges made of pure granite, which encouraged climbing and climbing.
The sunset once again fascinating. Due to reflections, the entire area appears miraculously brighter for a short time than minutes before.
Day 16
Roll up the sleeping bag for the last time, free the mats of the air they had previously brought in, pack the tent properly, as if in a trance, meanwhile doing everything perfectly. The last trip to Windhoek was announced, where we had an overnight stay in a hotel before the flight the next day.
But before that, admire and buy minerals from the locals. There are dozens of different crystals in all shapes and colors in the display and can be bought there for little money.
The waiting 310 GS was properly wired and reactivated at the hotel. Then brought directly to the drop-off point, including the top case of the 750. At this point, the big one was obviously still in Rostock, we didn't see her again...
It was almost mandatory that we went back to Joe's for dinner in the evening. Sure, to say goodbye it had to be a steak again.
Day 17
Packing was the order of the day for the grand finale. Everything had to be stowed away in the pockets provided. In fact, there wasn't much that we didn't need. Maybe a few clothes less, there are ways to quickly wash something by hand everywhere.
After a princely breakfast, we drove to the city center and bought souvenirs for those who stayed at home in the Namibia Craft Center. Real handcraft by the locals. The rest went smoothly and is quickly told.
Hand in the car at the airport and almost on time, the plane took off for Frankfurt. A short stopover in Frankfurt (same time zone as Namibia) and we were back in local realms. Dirty weather, ah yes we are home again...
Epilogue:
What are the 3 things that bikers should definitely have with them?
And another insider tip
Everything else comes about – somehow.
Although the proportion of gravel in Namibia is very high, the main connecting routes are easy to manage. Nevertheless, some off-road experience (with luggage!) is absolutely necessary. You should also be able to tolerate temperatures above 30 degrees. Depending on the condition of the driver, sufficient breaks should be scheduled. Depending on the route, it can happen that you drive only gravel from morning to evening.
What remains? Priceless memories, experiences that probably only the black continent has to offer. Helpful, friendly people no matter where we were, fascinating crystal clear desert nights with a starry sky that is second to none.
No internet connections with our European cell phones. Only via WLAN in hotels/restaurants, if at all. A local SIM card is strongly recommended. All in all, however, we appreciated the fact that you are not always online and reachable.
The property, mostly well hidden behind walls. Property is probably interpreted a little more loosely by some people. The unemployment rate of around 20% is high and the gap between rich and poor is huge.
But we always felt safe, especially in the wilderness.
Namibia you pearl. We will come back!
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