In June 2025, nine of our club members embarked on a perfectly organized, two-week trip through Kyrgyzstan, led by Alatoo Moto.
Even during registration, some of us knew: We wanted more: The chance to drive the legendary Pamir Highway wouldn't let us go.
In the end, a group of seven adventurers formed – including Hans Porger, who actually managed to arrive in Osh in time, right in the middle of his long journey. And he didn't come alone: his Turkish companion Murat, who had been traveling with him since Pakistan, also joined us.
Through AlatooMoto in Osh, we rented robust 650cc Yamahas – some of them venerable models from the 1990s. We also got panniers, spare parts, and all the necessary paperwork to travel beyond the Kyrgyz border.
Some of us were already familiar with the first part of the route, as well as the homestay we had organized for the night.
Crossing the border into Tajikistan took us over the Kyzyl-Art Pass at an altitude of 4.282 meters. And there, almost instantly, the landscape changed.
Kyrgyzstan's gentle, green pastures full of horses, sheep, and cows transformed into a barren, moon-like world devoid of color, people, and animals. No wonder – we were now constantly traveling above 3.500 meters, surrounded by icy giants.
The next few days were a journey into the unknown: no cell phone reception, internet only occasionally available in accommodations. The advantage of the region? There are only three roads, few villages, hardly any gas stations, and very limited accommodation options – so it's virtually impossible to get lost.
On the leg to Karakul, Ossi was injured so badly that he could not continue.
His return journey to Osh – fittingly in a small military truck from the 1950s – was already his next adventure.
However, his absence had consequences for us: Without our “almost Kyrgyz” we changed our route and skipped the notorious Bartang Valley.
Instead, our journey took us along the Pamir Highway to Alichur. The route there involved crossing the Al-Baital Pass at 4.655 meters.
It wasn't just the old Yamahas that were struggling there – we riders were also gasping for air.
We spent the night in a hotel that was actually fully booked, but the owner improvised and put the five of us in one room.
The journey continued through breathtaking scenery to Chorugh. The colors of the stones changed here like in a kaleidoscope.
A fantastic homestay with excellent cuisine became our home for two nights.
From there we ventured a detour into the Bartang Valley – at least as far as we could go. A 300-meter-long landslide finally stopped us.
There we met a Russian who had been stuck with his KTM between two landslides for four days.
That's when we knew for sure: our change of route was absolutely the right decision – several days without a tent, we would have been lost.
Our return journey took us along the Afghan border through the Wakhan Corridor, always following the border river.
While there were still trucks from China and occasional tourists on the Pamir Highway, we were almost completely alone here.
Almost – because the only accommodation we could find along the way was full. So the four of us slept on the kitchen floor.
The next morning began early – departure at 6:00 a.m. We knew that a river which was expected to rise more and more throughout the day would be impassable from midday onwards.
Getting up early paid off: we got through without any problems. Well planned.
We traveled back to Kyrgyzstan via the Al-Baital Pass, to our already familiar accommodation.
From there we drove back to Osh on the surprisingly perfectly paved Pamir Highway.
Aside from the scenery and the challenges, it was above all the warmth of the people that deeply impressed us.
The difference between developed Kyrgyzstan – also shaped by Chinese investments – and the simple life in the Tajik Pamir was enormous.
The days spent in the Pamir Mountains were an experience that will stay with us for a long time.
A journey full of challenges, surprises, and unforgettable moments – just the way we like it. Thanks to everyone involved. Best regards, Flo
